Posted on Mar 9th, 2006
by
Mags
I love ethnography...the study of be-ing, of participating in culture. Be-ing is life is motion, it is a verb in intrasitive action. I like Be-ing because it is active like life. Being is a static noun...this piece is about Be-ing in the Northern Andes of peru, a town called Cajamarca where I worked for two years. This was my ethnographic piece of my experience of my first Peruvian wedding (that I was invited to be in and take part in). Makes you think about concept of time and how we life. When a western mind meets a manana world...
La dia de la boda (the day of the wedding) El 17 de Abril, 2004
I woke up at 7:30am so I could get in a good meditation and some thoughtful prayer before I set out for the salon to meet Nery (the Peruvian bride to be) and Meche (her best woman, Peruvian). I suggested we all meet in the morning, girls’ style, so that we could be in one another’s company before the big day…they both seemed excited about the plan. Just a little background..the wedding party was Nery and Adam of course, Nery was going to be given away by her older brother Gabriel who also lives here (he is 24), Meche was to walk in with Moises, Nery’s other brother, and I was to walk in with Miguel, Nery’s younger brother. Dan was to wait in front with his son Adam for the beautiful bride to walk in…well, that was the plan. All systems go at 11:30am. Well, except when you are in Peru. 11am Salon Olvio Well, here I am sitting at Salon Olvio, the wedding invitation reads that the ceremony will commence at 11:30, yet here we are sitting in the salon, Nery still getting her hair all twisted up and make-up still to be done…this doesn’t include the stop we still have to make at my house to put on her dress and finishing touches, or the 20 minute ride out to La Collpa hacienda…but alas, we are on Peruvian time, and if the wedding begins at 12:30pm we’ll be LUCKY. I am laughing as I drink my glass of champagne, thinking “la vida de los Peruanos” (the life of Peruvians), I am probably the one who is most stressed right now…and so I just pour some more champagne, because the bride doesn’t seem to be worried about anything. I arrived at the salon this morning at 9am as instructed, that’s when we had our appointments, but as I tried to forage my way thru Spanish conversation with the stylists…I didn’t see the bride or Meche until 9:30am, as they hopped out of their taxi, they said, “oh well, we’re late.” Supposedly, a car (a specially decorated taxi) is picking us up to leave for the ceremony at 10am…yeah right, I look over at Nery who has just had her hair washed at 9:45am and say, “there is no way we’re getting in any car at 10am.” She nods and sips her champagne. I smile and sip mine because I can picture myself with my sisters in IL. getting ready for weddings together (that should be a HBO Monday evening movie), we would be flipping out if this was the case…I mean us Miller women have a long tradition of being a little tardy…but this is down right late…well, again I laugh, because only in my “truth” is it late. I tried to bring some of that sisterly tradition I have gotten from my sisters to this whole experience. Se llamo este tradicion la union de las hermanas. (My name for this tradition is the “union of the sisters”). I don’t know how to say sisterhood, so that’s the phrase I used to describe us all getting together for some morning fun. Nery’s girlfriends didn’t really seem to practice these supportive womanly traditions with each other…and besides that she has four brothers and her mom passed away several years ago, so she needs some goddess power. Mini flashback to week before the wedding….Dan and Gabriel (Nery’s bro) were throwing Adam a bachelor party on Thursday, and Nery was a little upset because the Peruvian tradition is supposedly that the groom-to-be engages in some lovin’ with a Peruvian hooker-dancer of sorts on the bachelor night…Of course Adam said he wasn’t interested in doing that (and later he said the party was “as good as over” when the hired woman did a somersault during her “dance” to the love song from “Titanic.”) Anyway, Nery needed a little diversion, so I called together a mini-bachelorette party since none of Nery’s friends suggested going out. Nery, Meche, and I got together at my favy dinner spot, Don Paco’s, and I bought us 2 bottles of vino tinto (red wine). It was a good time, and upon the decision to get the second bottle I told Nery, “Let’s just relax, soon enough your man will come looking for you.” I knew Nery was fretting where Adam was and what he was doing, she is only 22 and a bit insecure I think (I remember that well), and so we drank and laughed and at about midnight (I knew the dudes party was over at 11:30), Adam and Nery’s brother came rolling by. I smiled at Nery’s excitement and surprise to see Adam…I hoped that she caught the small and grand learning of letting someone do what they need with trust in your heart, so that they can fulfill themselves, and then the love grows. So, back to the salon, I brought two bottles of champagne for us to imbibe and some bread and marmalade (I didn’t want to be responsible for getting the bride sick before her wedding on an empty stomach). The women in the salon looked at me like I was a lush as I broke out the bottles and glasses. I told them “en los Estados Unidos, es una tradicion con las mujeres antes de la boda, todos bebemos en celebracion” (In the U.S., it is a tradition that the women drink together in celebration before the wedding.) Well, at least that is the Miller lady tradition. So we all got our hair and make-up done. The girls decided for me that I would have my hair done “con crespas” (with curls), and so Tracey the stylist curled every piece up my hair into locks that later gave rise to my nickname at the wedding “la muneca” (dollie) and/or “barbie.” I didn’t know what to make of that name since Barbie always kind of pissed me off with her fake blue eye shadow and other unobtainable features. Despues…(later) The wedding invite read 11:30am as I previously noted, yet here I sit in the car just leaving my home at 1:15pm with Nery, Meche, and a cheeseball sunglass-bearing mousse-slicked driver named “Dante” and Nery’s younger bro Miguel in the front. Tio Dan has called me several times wondering where we are…and I didn’t really know what to say except, “nowhere near there.” Nery refused to leave for La Collpa until she received verification that the judge was present to marry her…she wanted to have a grand entrance to the music we picked last night, Sarah McGlaughlin’s song “Angel.” I laughed in the car all buzzed on my champagne as Dan informed me all the gringos who were his business associates had arrived at the wedding by 11:30am. The only ones there at the “real time” were all the gringos…Peruvians started trailing in at 12 noon, 12:30, knowing the ceremony would be at least an hour late. As we begin our drive, Dan calls and I inform him we are finally in the car..on the way there, but little did I know….. The music is slow and somber, and Nery tells the driver Dante “mas accion!” (more action.) And as we begin to drive with taped ribbons flapping in the wind on the outside of the car, the driver throws on some ACDC and we begin rockin out to “Back in Black.” We slug the rest of the champagne straight from the bottle family style and I notice we are not driving the way of the hacienda La Collpa, but instead we are circling the town. I begin to ask questions, knowing we are now almost 2 hours late and we are driving in squares/circles (darvueltas). I am informed at this moment that the tradition is to drive around town so everyone can wave at you and wish you happiness. And they do, the people yell out to us “Tiene una vida de felicidad!” (Have a life of happiness!) as we drive by with our ACDC blasting. Just as we complete our cruizin’ around Cajamarca and I think we’re headed out, we stop at two stores so that we can pick up some beers…I am hysterically laughing by this time (also buzzed), because I cannot believe we are making beer pitstops and now it is 1:30pm or so. Uncle Dan keeps calling me and I don’t even know what to say at this point except “we’re on our way.” I know he is stressed out about the gringos that have been there more than 2 hours now, and I am informed that no one brought the plastic cups for beer, so at the wedding space everyone is quietly sitting at tables with nothing to drink….I am glad I am with the ladies at this point. I chuckle to myself about my lesson to Nery the previous evening at the bachelorette gathering, she must feel powerfully about making her man waitï?Š Just as I think we are well on our way, I get a phone call from Gabriel, Nery’s brother, who informs us that his taxi is about 5 minutes behind us…so naturally as he is supposed to walk Nery down the aisle, Nery asks our driver to pull aside so that we can wait for the other cab while we drink some beers. We listen to some salsa music and I stare with the biggest enthusiastic smile outside at the dirt road, farmland, and bulls walking by. The girls notice me and ask what I am laughing at, I tell them “this is the most relaxed wedding I have ever been to.” Finally, Gabriel and taxi full of people catch up with us, I am told they have the plastic cups for beer, (oh all is well! SIGHHHHH, when they get there), and we carry on while listening to some Spanish love songs while the Peruanas sing enthusiastically. Next pitstop, 1:40pm, there is a part of the dirt road that was flooded out by rain…I suppose that is something most of us don’t think about making us late for our wedding: “flooded dirt road.” There are about 10 campesinos and a huge truck has just dumped huge boulders in the road to fill the flooded hole with…but the men are apparently on their siesta and just stare at our car as we look at them. Nery gets out the window all beautiful in her wedding garb and informs them in her rockin Spanish that she is the bride and her groom is waiting for her…they look at us…Dante the driver gets out and hands them some money…and all 10 of them start shoveling those boulders…in about 5 more minutes we are moving again. Dan calls again, and I tell him “we’re close.” I can feel the perspiration on his white bald beautiful head over the phone. I am now just as relaxed as the ladies and I don’t really care when we get there. ½ mile from La Collpa and Nery informs Dante that we need to pull over so she can take a pee on the side of the road. I tell her it is a splendid idea that she not have to pee during her entire ceremony, and i also have to pee so I am psyched! In the bright sun of the Andes, I hold up Nery’s wedding dress as her butt faces two mules that look at us with puzzled faces. I laugh as I try and pee and step into a muddy ditch and fall a couple feet, “ain’t nothing gonna breaka my stride (who sings that great song, Hall and Oats?) We resume, and in our last 200 yards of the drive, another taxi whizzes by us, it is Nery’s (3rd) last brother who is also in the wedding party, arriving from Lima “just in the knick of time.” Everyone cheers with gratitude and happiness, and I smile so huge knowing that “everything is exactly the way it is supposed to be.” That when we trust the Universe, it all works out perfectly…and in some sort of wondrous daze, we all step out of our cars, Gabriel grabs Nery, Miguel grabs me, and Moises grabs Meche and I hear the words from that beautiful song playing like in some sort of romantic movie, “Spend all your time waiting, for that second chance, for a break that could make it okay…there’s always some reason, to feel not good enough, and it’s hard at the end of the day…” The wind is whipping, puffy clouds in the blue sky, and everyone stands, and Nery has her entrance, and I am smiling that cheesy smile that I do, walking into the wooden room of the hacienda, looking at all the Peruvian faces (and they wondering who I am), and walking toward Adam and Dan, who looked relieved and happy. Nery is sparkling and it is beautiful. I am moved by all the emotion, the new learnings and experience, the trusting, and the memories of my family and others I love who are physically far but looking through my eyes with me. It is 2:15pm., Peruvian time. Al ceremonio (at the ceremony)… About 65 folks attended la boda, 4 of them gringos (one was Canadian). The ceremony was simple and included a beautiful exchange of vows and rings between Adam and Nery…in both English and Spanish. We four gringos smiled with pleasure during the English vows and the Peruvians sighed during the Spanish vows. Dan gave a fatherly speech to his son, welcoming his newest family member Nery, and all was translated by Gabriel into Spanish for the crowd. Gabriel next read a beautiful message from Adam’s mom Kit (who could not be there), and Adam’s best friend Pepin read a message from Adam’s brother Brian and partner Elizabeth…both translated into Spanish for the crowd. The peace, love, and longing on Adams face was evident and beautiful…as he listened to the words from his family, I know he was both happy and wishing they were here. We lifted our glasses and celebrated in solidarity with one big “Salud!” to the new esposo y esposa (husband and wife). After signing some scary thick pile of Peruvian documents that declared their Peruvian marriage to be legal, the fiesta was on, and let me tell you, the Peruvians like to party. We had 240 bottles of cerveza grande (3 8-ouncers per bottle), 12 bottles of whiskey, and 10 bottles of champagne. There was no shortage of booze, that was for sure. We ate meat stuffed bell peppers, some sort of alien chicken patty wrapped in pig skin (everyone seemed to dig it), and my savior of all foods…rice. The people looked thirsty as could be, so with a shortage in servers, I took this chance to be a beer server and to meet all the tables of people. I was excited to meet all of these people, especially the tables full of old-school suit wearin’ chimney smokin’ Peruvian patriarchs. I received a great compliment from one of them, Segundo Sandoval, who told Dan I did a good job being the womanly presence in Adam’s family with the absence of his mom (she is in San Diego and visiting next month). When I asked this patriarch-filled table if they wanted beer, they answered “siempre ” (always) with their raspy Spanish accents. When I asked them if they wanted whiskey, they said “siempre” once again. Some of the people asked me why I was serving, because it wasn’t my job to be a “servant” (that was the job of the campesinos that worked at La Collpa…and I have been told more than once that I am perceived to be on the “first” hierarchy of people and have to accept what is offered in that sense…more on that later) But I wanted to break that barrier, to show that serving people was about more than “serving” in the sense they perceived, it was about a chance to connect, to be with one another…and that I felt happy doing that, that I wanted to do that. Essentially, my favorite people (besides Adam and Dan) at the wedding ended up being my campesino “servant” friends who I believe respected me for my willingness to be with them, to connect with them, to serve as they served. I called them “familia” (family) and we took pictures together, pictures they asked me to bring back to them to hang in their rooms…tomorrow I will bring them their copies, they are such gorgeous people. Booze abound, Peruvians like to get their groove on! “Baila conmigo!” “Bailamos!” (Dance with me! Let’s dance!)…people were getting down to the Peruvian tones, and no one had any intention of resting anytime soon. Salsa beats filled the air accompanied by sexy women shaking their booties and men moving in wondrous ways with all sorts of rhythms. My philosophy I have shared with some of my Afro-American and Hispanic friends in San Diego is that white people are born without a certain gene…and that gene is the “bootie-shaking gene.” You can try and try, but I have personally never witnessed a white person shaking quite like this in my life. These women and men were getting down, all day and night for about 6 hours straight, sweating out whiskey, cigarettes, and beer. There were so many smiles and laughter, especially during the salsa tunes as they form two lines, all men on one side facing all the women. And everyone shakes it…I learned of course that the secret to salsa is in the shoulders, letting them go…there were some scripted dances (like our YMCA or Electric Slide), where everyone in the line turns to their right and grabs the voluptuous hips in front of them as you go “abajo” (down down down) to the floor, butt shaking into the air. Now turn to the left and get down with some more “abajo.” Of course I used this opportunity to get some groovy salsa lessons, my hips had it going but I needed to get those shoulders loose. By the middle of the wedding, I was getting nods of acknowledgement that I had achieved some “success” in my salsa moves from my Peruvian partners (or they felt bad for me). I had a couple dances with Adam where we busted out the good ol’ California club moves that you might witness to Snoop Doggy or Ludicris. Of course, we did try to throw in some gringo music here and there, mostly overruled with a big common group noise of astonishment and disappointment. We did get a successful response to “Wish You Were Here” (Pink Floyd) that Nery/Adam and Dan and I danced to like complete borrachos (drunks) losing our balance; I think we were all dancing that song for all of the people we longed to share these moments with. After the song, everyone applauded us, it was kind of like the momentary gringo show…see what they dance to…?! (Nery is kind of an adopted gringo now). We also got away with a couple of Bob Marley tunes, but otherwise, gringo music DEFINITELY overruled. The custom in Peru is that the wedding cake is only for the family…yet we had a three-tiered cake that was going to go home with four of us…so after some minor buzzed discussion regarding custom and not wasting food, at about 10pm Nery and Adam just hacked up the bottom tier of the cake for everyone, and we all dug in with our hands and slurped up the sugary satisfaction. The Andean night air began to blow in and cool the place off, and for the 15-20 people or so that remained, we called taxis that took a half hour to arrive. We listened to some more Marley and everyone sat in chairs slumped on one another, while some cleaned up the golden table coverings, all waiting to refuel in whatever ways we chose. Dan and I hopped in one of those cabs and slumped our heads into One as we both fell into the abyss along a bumpy dirt road that made for some strange dreamin’…We awoke at our house and I changed my shoes from salsa shin splint aches, and we headed off to Don Pacos, our favy restaurant, to join Nery and Adam and a couple others for some red wine, duck, pumpkin pasta, and good ol’ fashion wedding discussion that featured Adam being a smart ass about the “ice cooler” he received as a wedding present (he received four presents). I told him this glorious gift was for freezing infected Peruvian water ice cubes for when he had company over for dinner. Of course, Dan noted how wondrous this gift was and that he would love to have it for his whiskey evenings. (alpha males are fun to watch together). The night ended at Casa Luna, our hang-out bar, where everyone sat in some upstairs room with cement walls, floor laden cushions from some long-ago couch, five bottles of beer being passed around a crowd of 15 or so, and one guitar being played by Nery’s drunken Peruvian brother Miguel as we all sang in chorus Red Hot Chili Peppers “Sometimes I feel like I don’t have a partner, sometimes I feel like my only friend…” What a song of happiness for the end of la boda loca. Isn’t life wonderful? I went to sleep thinking of the gift of love, and one big thank you for witnessing it, receiving it, and giving it. Blessings… Magdalyn Z.
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